Thursday, June 14th (completed 6/24 after resting up)
Today's our day to head back to Seattle. I knew it would be a long day so tried to take it easy until flight time.
Had a leisurely breakfast in the hotel and then went shopping for last minute souvenirs. I didn't want much so mostly watched while the other guys bargained.
Ramesh came by at 1100 and escorted us to the Presidential Palace Museum which was a half mile or so away. Had to surrender our cell phones at the gate so couldn't take photos.
The museum consists of nineteen open rooms of the 54 rooms in the old palace plus the grounds. As such museums go, it's about average with pictures and artifacts from the days of the monarchy. There were several animal skin rugs, rhino and elephant foot ashtrays and other trophies from the days of big game hunting.
On June 1st 2001, the royal family was massacred by persons still unknown. Bullet holes in some of the walls are highlighted and the mystery persists despite rumors and speculation about the perpetrator(s).
Back at the hotel, we washed up from the dusty walk then had a light lunch, finished some last minute packing, settled our hotel bill and relaxed until dinner time.
After dinner (2000) we loaded up the jeep of Ramesh's friend and rode across town to the airport where we cleared security but had to fight to keep our walking stick umbrellas.
Took off from Kathmandu at 2330 and landed in Dubai five hours later at 0230 local. Our bags were checked through to Seattle but we had to clear security again and get new boarding passes.
Whiled away four hours in the busy terminal waiting to check in through another layer of security for our flight to Seattle scheduled for an 0830 departure.
Took off a little before 0900 for the long (14 hour 20 minute) flight home.
About midway on that flight Russ began to have severe pain in both legs. The flight crew got him out of his seat, prone in the crew area and administered oxygen.
Once the plane descended, the pain receded. The medics met the plane and evaluated him as fit to go through customs and immigration.
He went to the hospital later and was diagnosed with blood clots in both legs. It's been a tough trip for him and we all wish him well.
Home at 1330 to complete the long day of travel.
Monday, June 25, 2018
Wednesday, June 13, 2018
A Hidden Treasure
Wednesday, June 13th
This morning I decided to take a circuitous route to the nearby main street. It was a secluded byway where cars were prohibited. The street was in good repair and the adjoining properties well maintained.
I was drawn to one property with a large courtyard and beautiful architecture.
This morning I decided to take a circuitous route to the nearby main street. It was a secluded byway where cars were prohibited. The street was in good repair and the adjoining properties well maintained.
I was drawn to one property with a large courtyard and beautiful architecture.
A little farther down the street there was a wall with these remarkable ornamental bricks, carved prior to firing.
Around Kathmandu
Tuesday, June 12th
Beautiful beauganvillia over the entrance to a nice building. Just ignore the muddy road outside.
Lots of shops selling brass bowls, bells and other brass souvenirs.
Here's a shop specializing in beads, hats and embroidered canvas shoulder bags.
A main corner in our part of town.
An open air butcher shop with plenty of flies.
An orderly fruit stand displaying the fruits of the day.
Across from our hotel a young bricklayer doing his thing.
Beautiful beauganvillia over the entrance to a nice building. Just ignore the muddy road outside.
Monday, June 11, 2018
Ramesh's Second Birthday
Sunday, June 10th
We enjoyed a lazy day looking around the neighborhood, catching up on our calorie deficit and generally taking it easy.
We were up in the hills on his birthday, so tonight Ramesh is celebrating his birthday with his family. He invited us to come along to his house and help celebrate.
Thanks to the Kathmandu traffic, it took us a little over an hour and fifteen minutes to travel to 5.5 kilometers from our hotel to his place. That works out to an average speed of 2.75 mph. We could have walked there in less time.
Once we got there, we enjoyed a nice evening. Ramesh was the target of a sequin gun, there was a sparkler candle on his cake and his wife, Bobbie, served us the best daal baht dinner we've had in Nepal.
We enjoyed a lazy day looking around the neighborhood, catching up on our calorie deficit and generally taking it easy.
We were up in the hills on his birthday, so tonight Ramesh is celebrating his birthday with his family. He invited us to come along to his house and help celebrate.
Thanks to the Kathmandu traffic, it took us a little over an hour and fifteen minutes to travel to 5.5 kilometers from our hotel to his place. That works out to an average speed of 2.75 mph. We could have walked there in less time.
Once we got there, we enjoyed a nice evening. Ramesh was the target of a sequin gun, there was a sparkler candle on his cake and his wife, Bobbie, served us the best daal baht dinner we've had in Nepal.
Sunday, June 10, 2018
EBC Trekking Map
Sunday, June 10th
An old friend asked if I could post a map of our trekking route so he could follow our journey since the place names were unfamiliar and not on many maps.
I have a good National Geographic map of the Khumbu area which I used to trace our route but it covers so much and is a little hard to read, it doesn't photograph well.
When we were in Namche Bazaar, I bought a souvenir t-shirt with a simple map of the route from Lukla to points of interest to the north, including Everest base camp.
Bottom left is a simple map of Nepal. It shows the spatial relationship between Kathmandu, the capital city, and Mt Everest.
If you look at the bottom center, you see Lukla, with the airstrip symbol. As I mentioned earlier, many people fly into Lukla and start their trek there. The problem is that Lukla is a little less than 10,000 feet high so AMS (acute mountain sickness) is a danger to the people who don't acclimate to the altitude.
We started our trek at Jiri, which isn't shown above because it is about three times as far to the west as the distance from Lukla to the west edge of Nepal in the map shown.
Three advantages of starting at Jiri are building strength, aclimatizing to elevation and seeing the not so touristy areas before reaching Lukla. The disadvantages are time and money since it adds an additional ten days to the trek.
Personally, I'm happy we started at Jiri since I had a chance to get into shape and used to the elevations before tackling the rough parts higher up.
In any case, you'll need a different map to find the places we stopped on the way from Jiri to Lukla, but from Lukla to Everest base camp you can follow along on the simple map, above. (You should be able to double click on the photo and enlarge it.)
Hope this, in conjunction with my blog reports, helps give you a better picture of what we've been doing for the past couple weeks.
An old friend asked if I could post a map of our trekking route so he could follow our journey since the place names were unfamiliar and not on many maps.
I have a good National Geographic map of the Khumbu area which I used to trace our route but it covers so much and is a little hard to read, it doesn't photograph well.
When we were in Namche Bazaar, I bought a souvenir t-shirt with a simple map of the route from Lukla to points of interest to the north, including Everest base camp.
If you look at the bottom center, you see Lukla, with the airstrip symbol. As I mentioned earlier, many people fly into Lukla and start their trek there. The problem is that Lukla is a little less than 10,000 feet high so AMS (acute mountain sickness) is a danger to the people who don't acclimate to the altitude.
We started our trek at Jiri, which isn't shown above because it is about three times as far to the west as the distance from Lukla to the west edge of Nepal in the map shown.
Three advantages of starting at Jiri are building strength, aclimatizing to elevation and seeing the not so touristy areas before reaching Lukla. The disadvantages are time and money since it adds an additional ten days to the trek.
Personally, I'm happy we started at Jiri since I had a chance to get into shape and used to the elevations before tackling the rough parts higher up.
In any case, you'll need a different map to find the places we stopped on the way from Jiri to Lukla, but from Lukla to Everest base camp you can follow along on the simple map, above. (You should be able to double click on the photo and enlarge it.)
Hope this, in conjunction with my blog reports, helps give you a better picture of what we've been doing for the past couple weeks.
Saturday, June 9, 2018
Lukla to Kathmandu
Saturday, June 9th
Woke to clear skies as the resident roster started crowing at 0420. Looks good for flying as long as the weather holds.
We had a quick breakfast, settled our bills and headed for the terminal around the end of the runway.
It was the same chaotic mess as last time with people running to and fro, shouting, shuffling bags and generally contributing to the confusion.
At the pat down station, the official went through my first aid kit, found my tiny tweezers in a plastic tube and confiscated them, saying, "These are not allowed." No matter I've been carrying that first aid kit for the past three years through good security checkpoints. He did his job, by golly.
First Summit Air flight got in and out at 0700. He made a quick turn around and was back at 0811. We loaded up and were on our way.
Touched down at Kathmandu at 0847.
Ramesh found a taxi to our hotel and off we went through the crazy traffic of Kathmandu.
At the hotel we checked in then went up a floor to check in on Russ. He looks much better and is feeling good but still a little weak.
Next priority for me was a long hot shower. Washed my hair and beard for the first time in four weeks. Afterward I felt like a new man.
We took Ramesh, his brother (who had taken care of Russ and Jeff while Mike and I were trekking), and porter Bibi to dinner.
It was a celebratory dinner. Russ had survived a major scare and was doing fine, Jeff had done a good job of helping and caring for his father-in-law, Mike and I had completed the trek and Ramesh was celebrating a successful conclusion to a contract that once had looked pretty shaky.
Now that we are back in Kathmandu, we can relax and get ready for our flight home.
Woke to clear skies as the resident roster started crowing at 0420. Looks good for flying as long as the weather holds.
We had a quick breakfast, settled our bills and headed for the terminal around the end of the runway.
It was the same chaotic mess as last time with people running to and fro, shouting, shuffling bags and generally contributing to the confusion.
At the pat down station, the official went through my first aid kit, found my tiny tweezers in a plastic tube and confiscated them, saying, "These are not allowed." No matter I've been carrying that first aid kit for the past three years through good security checkpoints. He did his job, by golly.
First Summit Air flight got in and out at 0700. He made a quick turn around and was back at 0811. We loaded up and were on our way.
Touched down at Kathmandu at 0847.
Ramesh found a taxi to our hotel and off we went through the crazy traffic of Kathmandu.
At the hotel we checked in then went up a floor to check in on Russ. He looks much better and is feeling good but still a little weak.
Next priority for me was a long hot shower. Washed my hair and beard for the first time in four weeks. Afterward I felt like a new man.
We took Ramesh, his brother (who had taken care of Russ and Jeff while Mike and I were trekking), and porter Bibi to dinner.
It was a celebratory dinner. Russ had survived a major scare and was doing fine, Jeff had done a good job of helping and caring for his father-in-law, Mike and I had completed the trek and Ramesh was celebrating a successful conclusion to a contract that once had looked pretty shaky.
Friday, June 8, 2018
Lukla - Waiting 2
Good flying weather at 0530 this morning but it gradually deteriorated. Two planes got in early this morning but then clouds closed in at 0700 and visibility prohibited further flights. Helicopters have more freedom but even they have been few.
Since our reservation yesterday went unfulfilled we have gone to the bottom of the standby list. That means we would be on the fourth flight of the day, if they fly. So far today there have been only the two so we are in a little better position for tomorrow.
1000 - the weather has been teasing us with occasional glimpses of blue sky but no more flights.
1200 - heavy rain at times. No flights.
1400 - heavy rain all the time. No flights.
1530 - rain slowed and stopped. Waterfalls in full flow down the hillsides.
1630 - sunshine and partly cloudy skies. Perhaps a harbinger of good weather tomorrow. Too late for flights today.
Ramesh checked in with his friend at Summit Air. We're scheduled for the second flight tomorrow. Good news. Now we pray for good flying weather in the morning.
This afternoon Mike and I went shopping for a cake to celebrate Ramesh's birthday tonight. We needed to order a cake a day in advance so instead we bought a fruit cake and coconut macaroons. Our singing wasn't so good and we had no candles but we did a good job of celebrating Ramesh's 49th birthday.
Since our reservation yesterday went unfulfilled we have gone to the bottom of the standby list. That means we would be on the fourth flight of the day, if they fly. So far today there have been only the two so we are in a little better position for tomorrow.
1000 - the weather has been teasing us with occasional glimpses of blue sky but no more flights.
1200 - heavy rain at times. No flights.
1400 - heavy rain all the time. No flights.
1530 - rain slowed and stopped. Waterfalls in full flow down the hillsides.
1630 - sunshine and partly cloudy skies. Perhaps a harbinger of good weather tomorrow. Too late for flights today.
Ramesh checked in with his friend at Summit Air. We're scheduled for the second flight tomorrow. Good news. Now we pray for good flying weather in the morning.
This afternoon Mike and I went shopping for a cake to celebrate Ramesh's birthday tonight. We needed to order a cake a day in advance so instead we bought a fruit cake and coconut macaroons. Our singing wasn't so good and we had no candles but we did a good job of celebrating Ramesh's 49th birthday.
Thursday, June 7, 2018
Lukla - Waiting
Thursday, June 7th
We are scheduled to fly from Lukla to Kathmandu today so after an early breakfast we hustled over to the terminal to check in. This airline, Summit Air, restricts total checked plus carry on baggage to ten kilos. Mike and I have twice that but the two porters have much less so we are ok.
There are no X-ray machines or other modern screening devices in evidence. We weighed and checked our big bags, carried our day packs to the inspection point, denied having lighters or other hazardous materials, went through a male/female pat down station and were in the waiting room.
Bad weather has the Lukla strip closed so far. Ramesh says we stand by here in the waiting room until 1400 in case the weather improves. The amenities are a restroom and a tea stall. The tea stall has a variety of cookies, candy bars, crackers and drinks. Guess we'll have crackers for lunch.
0900 still surrounded by grey clouds. One airline canceled and pax left the terminal. We're still holding out hope for clearing.
1100 we can see the sunshine on the hills across the valley but still clouds on this side. Temperature up to 58° here in the waiting room. Still hoping for flyable weather.
This is the strangest terminal.
Some of the passengers came in dressed for Kathmandu. Our checked bags are outside on a luggage wagon covered with a tarp. The cold people wandered out, rummaged through the bags until they found their own, found extra clothing and came back into the terminal through the "do not enter" door.
Awhile ago, Ramesh left, went over to the shopping street, bought some snacks to share and came back in, no questions asked.
1300 still socked in. We'll wait a little longer.
1330 started to rain so we gave up for today.
Anticipating possible bad weather, when Russ arranged the schedule, he and Ramesh built in a cushion here in Lukla so we would be able to wait out a couple days of clouds but each day of delay makes it a little more nerve wracking.
If bad weather persists, we'll face a decision. We can take a chance and wait for clear skies but possibly miss our flight to Seattle or walk two days to the road where we can take a jeep to Kathmandu. Hopefully we'll get out by air in the next day or two and won't have to face that big decision.
Took a stroll through the town shopping street and saw a carpenter and his apprentice cutting plywood strips.
These tools belong to an old time finish carpenter installing wooden trim (brick mould) around the door jambs of this new building. I watched him use the adz on top of his step stool to trim the joint at the top corner. Very skillful.
We are scheduled to fly from Lukla to Kathmandu today so after an early breakfast we hustled over to the terminal to check in. This airline, Summit Air, restricts total checked plus carry on baggage to ten kilos. Mike and I have twice that but the two porters have much less so we are ok.
There are no X-ray machines or other modern screening devices in evidence. We weighed and checked our big bags, carried our day packs to the inspection point, denied having lighters or other hazardous materials, went through a male/female pat down station and were in the waiting room.
0900 still surrounded by grey clouds. One airline canceled and pax left the terminal. We're still holding out hope for clearing.
1100 we can see the sunshine on the hills across the valley but still clouds on this side. Temperature up to 58° here in the waiting room. Still hoping for flyable weather.
This is the strangest terminal.
Some of the passengers came in dressed for Kathmandu. Our checked bags are outside on a luggage wagon covered with a tarp. The cold people wandered out, rummaged through the bags until they found their own, found extra clothing and came back into the terminal through the "do not enter" door.
Awhile ago, Ramesh left, went over to the shopping street, bought some snacks to share and came back in, no questions asked.
1300 still socked in. We'll wait a little longer.
1330 started to rain so we gave up for today.
Anticipating possible bad weather, when Russ arranged the schedule, he and Ramesh built in a cushion here in Lukla so we would be able to wait out a couple days of clouds but each day of delay makes it a little more nerve wracking.
If bad weather persists, we'll face a decision. We can take a chance and wait for clear skies but possibly miss our flight to Seattle or walk two days to the road where we can take a jeep to Kathmandu. Hopefully we'll get out by air in the next day or two and won't have to face that big decision.
Took a stroll through the town shopping street and saw a carpenter and his apprentice cutting plywood strips.
These tools belong to an old time finish carpenter installing wooden trim (brick mould) around the door jambs of this new building. I watched him use the adz on top of his step stool to trim the joint at the top corner. Very skillful.
Here's hoping for a good day tomorrow.
Wednesday, June 6, 2018
Phakding to Lukla
Wed, June 6th
Departed at 0830
Our teahouse host burns juniper boughs, walks around the place and recites from the holy books for 45 minutes each morning.
After lunch Ramesh celebrated the end of our trek with popcorn. Mike had Sherpa beer and I had ginger tea
While having lunch, heard the distinctive sound of the rock hammer. Went outside and saw a woman sitting on a pile of crushed rock (1" minus) wielding that hammer. She had an iron ring on a handle and was breaking large rocks down to the right size. Ramesh says she bags up the finished product and sells it to the people who need crushed rock. Tough way to make s living.
A little later, on a walk through town, I saw this appealing sign for one of the local burger shops. Ramesh says the meat is buffalo or chicken. I saw no reason to try it since I've had no meat since we left Kathmandu.
Dahl baht at least once a day has given me power for the march. Sherpa stew is my other favorite. Between those two and my usual breakfast of oatmeal with two hardboiled eggs, I feel like I'm getting just enough calories to fuel my muscles, probably 3000-3500 calories per day.
Thursday, June 7th
The power went off during dinner last night. That killed the WiFi so couldn't post this update.
We were supposed to fly at 0700 this morning to Kathmandu but it's raining and cloudy so doubt there will be flights today, at least this morning.
We'll eat our 0530 breakfast, wait and see.
Departed at 0830
Our teahouse host burns juniper boughs, walks around the place and recites from the holy books for 45 minutes each morning.
Lukla at 1215
After lunch Ramesh celebrated the end of our trek with popcorn. Mike had Sherpa beer and I had ginger tea
While having lunch, heard the distinctive sound of the rock hammer. Went outside and saw a woman sitting on a pile of crushed rock (1" minus) wielding that hammer. She had an iron ring on a handle and was breaking large rocks down to the right size. Ramesh says she bags up the finished product and sells it to the people who need crushed rock. Tough way to make s living.
A little later, on a walk through town, I saw this appealing sign for one of the local burger shops. Ramesh says the meat is buffalo or chicken. I saw no reason to try it since I've had no meat since we left Kathmandu.
Dahl baht at least once a day has given me power for the march. Sherpa stew is my other favorite. Between those two and my usual breakfast of oatmeal with two hardboiled eggs, I feel like I'm getting just enough calories to fuel my muscles, probably 3000-3500 calories per day.
Thursday, June 7th
The power went off during dinner last night. That killed the WiFi so couldn't post this update.
We were supposed to fly at 0700 this morning to Kathmandu but it's raining and cloudy so doubt there will be flights today, at least this morning.
We'll eat our 0530 breakfast, wait and see.
Namche Bazaar to Phakding
Tuesday, June 5th, depart 0830
Last night after dinner a group of Indonesian trekkers asked if they could take pictures with Mike and me. I guess they wanted to be inspired by s couple of grey beards who completed the trek they are just starting.
Coming down the hill we so laboriously climbed twelve days ago, we again crossed the highest suspension bridge. That's Ramesh on the other side as the two porters approach this end. The old bridge is down to the right.
We crossed two more suspension bridges and a couple of log bridges as we worked our way down the river.
Seems there are always new sights. Today I saw a blackcap bush, the familiar white and purple foxgloves and other plants I thought native to the Pacific NW.
Stopped for lunch at Monju at 9,348 feet. Vegetables here are much further along than those higher up.
Along the way we passed this house, still standing but badly damaged after the 2015 earthquake. Ramesh told us about the government programs that help people rebuild. The key seemed to be "help" since aid was aimed at helping those who helped themselves.
We arrived at our teahouse at 1505 and 8,438 feet.
Our room had a nice bathroom with shower. Thought I was going to have a shower two days in a row. Nope, no hot water. Oh well, hopefully we'll be back in Kathmandu in a few days where our hotel will have hot showers.
Last night after dinner a group of Indonesian trekkers asked if they could take pictures with Mike and me. I guess they wanted to be inspired by s couple of grey beards who completed the trek they are just starting.
Coming down the hill we so laboriously climbed twelve days ago, we again crossed the highest suspension bridge. That's Ramesh on the other side as the two porters approach this end. The old bridge is down to the right.
Seems there are always new sights. Today I saw a blackcap bush, the familiar white and purple foxgloves and other plants I thought native to the Pacific NW.
Along the way we passed this house, still standing but badly damaged after the 2015 earthquake. Ramesh told us about the government programs that help people rebuild. The key seemed to be "help" since aid was aimed at helping those who helped themselves.
Our room had a nice bathroom with shower. Thought I was going to have a shower two days in a row. Nope, no hot water. Oh well, hopefully we'll be back in Kathmandu in a few days where our hotel will have hot showers.
Monday, June 4, 2018
Khumjung to Namche Bazaar
Monday, June 4th
Departed Khumjung 0815.
Visited the Khumjung high school. 350 students come from the surrounding villages to attend the best secondary school in the Khumbu area. Support comes from Many international donors
Worked our way up, yes, always up, to the Samten Choling Monastery where the main attraction is a yeti scalp. This monastery is the second oldest in the Khumbu region and has 54 volumes of sacred texts, statues of religious figures and other artifacts.
I've been seeing the small azelia bushes for a couple days. Finally found one beginning to bloom.
I've posted photos of prayer walls but this is a good example of one containing old carved tablets. The trail is built on both sides so travelers can keep the "mani wall" on their right no matter which way they are traveling.
Every day we pass workers building new trail, walls or houses out of granite rocks. It's hard work and all by hand. For short periods of time, I've used a three pound hammer similar to what they use. My arm got tired after s few minutes. These guys chip, chip, chip away all day long.
Back at Namche Bazaar at 1215 and 11,286 feet, we checked in, had lunch and took a short nap.
Later Mike and I went shopping. On the way to the bazaar streets we saw the prayer wheels that were being repainted when we were here ten days ago. Now they are turning full speed, sending prayers to the all knowing universe.
Had my first hot shower in ten days. Feels good to get the salt and the stink washed off.
After dinner we sat in the common room. They have no stove but it was pleasant enough with temps in the high fifties or low sixties. It has been enjoyable to have no artificial sounds for the past few weeks. No TV or radio, no vehicle noise or horns. Once in awhile, on the trail, one of the passing porters might have a small radio playimg but that's it. People converse or play cards. Reminds me of my youth.
Speaking of the trail, Gibi, our tall porter, has a good voice and sometimes sings us folk songs of the Nepali Himalayas. It's especially refreshing to be serenaded by Gibi during a rest break. I don't understand the words but it's easy to follow the melody, soaring to match the surrounding mountains.
Departed Khumjung 0815.
Visited the Khumjung high school. 350 students come from the surrounding villages to attend the best secondary school in the Khumbu area. Support comes from Many international donors
Back at Namche Bazaar at 1215 and 11,286 feet, we checked in, had lunch and took a short nap.
Later Mike and I went shopping. On the way to the bazaar streets we saw the prayer wheels that were being repainted when we were here ten days ago. Now they are turning full speed, sending prayers to the all knowing universe.
After dinner we sat in the common room. They have no stove but it was pleasant enough with temps in the high fifties or low sixties. It has been enjoyable to have no artificial sounds for the past few weeks. No TV or radio, no vehicle noise or horns. Once in awhile, on the trail, one of the passing porters might have a small radio playimg but that's it. People converse or play cards. Reminds me of my youth.
Speaking of the trail, Gibi, our tall porter, has a good voice and sometimes sings us folk songs of the Nepali Himalayas. It's especially refreshing to be serenaded by Gibi during a rest break. I don't understand the words but it's easy to follow the melody, soaring to match the surrounding mountains.
Sunday, June 3, 2018
Portse to Khumjung
Sunday, June 3rd departed Portse at 0830.
Last night after dinner, our host, Lhakpi Dorji Sherpa, owner of the Namaste Lodge, where we stayed, told us a little about himself.
He summitted Everest in May, 1983, with an American party and almost lost his life when he became separated from the group during the descent. He worked as a guide for many more years on many mountains in Nepal.
After injuring his knee a few years back, he had to retire from guiding and has concentrated on operating the guesthouse since.
He has a son who is a guide and who is supposed to be leading a party up another peak today.
He has made eleven trips to America visiting friends made during his guiding years. He especially enjoyed telling us about one trip to visit a friend who flies an airplane. They visited many places in the western states over a period of two months.
He and his wife donated half the land being used for the new buildings for the Khumbu Climbing School. The grand opening of the new school is scheduled for June 15th of next year.
As we got ready to go, this gentleman asked me how old I was. I told him 79 and he congratulated me. He said he was 86 so I congratulated him. He said he had been a guide in his younger days. He still had a firm grip and spoke decent English. We wished him well as we started our daily walk.
Started today in bright sunshine descending to the river, across a small bridge then up the other side.
"Up the other side" took us all morning navigating a steep but beautiful climb through evergreen trees, rhododendrons and different wildflowers at the different elevations.
Several times the distinctive smell of evergreen trees and wild rose blossoms blended by the early morning sun evoked memories of my youth on Orcas Island, walking in a completely different environment but smelling the same smell.
We worked through many switchbacks up the face of the mountain. One place reminded me of El Capitan in Yosemite with its huge rock face.
No one climbing here today but we did see some abandoned climbing bolts on one face where a crew had anchored themselves while repairing the rock wall that supported the skinny trail.
We were relieved to finally reach the crest and have lunch at the Viewpoint Guest House.
After lunch we walked down, up and across through more grand scenery to arrive at our teahouse at 1445 and 12,398 feet.
Last night after dinner, our host, Lhakpi Dorji Sherpa, owner of the Namaste Lodge, where we stayed, told us a little about himself.
After injuring his knee a few years back, he had to retire from guiding and has concentrated on operating the guesthouse since.
He has a son who is a guide and who is supposed to be leading a party up another peak today.
He has made eleven trips to America visiting friends made during his guiding years. He especially enjoyed telling us about one trip to visit a friend who flies an airplane. They visited many places in the western states over a period of two months.
He and his wife donated half the land being used for the new buildings for the Khumbu Climbing School. The grand opening of the new school is scheduled for June 15th of next year.
"Up the other side" took us all morning navigating a steep but beautiful climb through evergreen trees, rhododendrons and different wildflowers at the different elevations.
Several times the distinctive smell of evergreen trees and wild rose blossoms blended by the early morning sun evoked memories of my youth on Orcas Island, walking in a completely different environment but smelling the same smell.
We worked through many switchbacks up the face of the mountain. One place reminded me of El Capitan in Yosemite with its huge rock face.
No one climbing here today but we did see some abandoned climbing bolts on one face where a crew had anchored themselves while repairing the rock wall that supported the skinny trail.
We were relieved to finally reach the crest and have lunch at the Viewpoint Guest House.
After lunch we walked down, up and across through more grand scenery to arrive at our teahouse at 1445 and 12,398 feet.
Saturday, June 2, 2018
Pangboche to Portse
Saturday, June 2nd.
Departed Pangboche at 0830 at 13,100 feet.
I mentioned that it's the highest village in Nepal that's inhabited year round. the people are industrious and doing what needs to be done to scratch out a living at this elevation. They have garden plots enclosed by stone walls.
It's spring here at this latitude and elevation so wild plants and bushes are beginning to leaf out and domestic fields and gardens are just getting started.
I saw potatoes just coming up in most of the fields. A couple small plots held greens, some kind of choy, mustard, onions and garlic.
We said goodbye to Pangboche and headed up what turned out to be the most exciting trail so far. There were marvelous views, gut-wrenching drops from narrow paths and stairs constructed up and down to pass granite outcrops. And did I mention the views?
The river, always present on our left, sometimes was only 3-400 feet but sometimes 7-800 feet down, crashing through its canyon as it quickly fell out of the mountains, generated so much noise it was a relief to pass behind the occasional rock outcrop and into silence.
We got into Phortse at 1245 and 12,585 feet after an exhausting but exhilarating walk. Had lunch and retired to our room for a short nap.
After the recovery nap it was time to catch up on my blog. They have good connectivity here so was able to post yesterday's update and work on today's.
Our rooms have no heat but the heat from two bodies brings the temperature up to the low 50's, which is better than the common room before they light the fire. In order to stay warm we have to write memos, emails and blog updates while inside the feathers.
Departed Pangboche at 0830 at 13,100 feet.
I mentioned that it's the highest village in Nepal that's inhabited year round. the people are industrious and doing what needs to be done to scratch out a living at this elevation. They have garden plots enclosed by stone walls.
I saw potatoes just coming up in most of the fields. A couple small plots held greens, some kind of choy, mustard, onions and garlic.
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| On the hillside in the distance you can see the trail well be in later today. |
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| The river is the white streak at the bottom of the canyon. |
We got into Phortse at 1245 and 12,585 feet after an exhausting but exhilarating walk. Had lunch and retired to our room for a short nap.
After the recovery nap it was time to catch up on my blog. They have good connectivity here so was able to post yesterday's update and work on today's.
Our rooms have no heat but the heat from two bodies brings the temperature up to the low 50's, which is better than the common room before they light the fire. In order to stay warm we have to write memos, emails and blog updates while inside the feathers.
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