Fairbanks Riverboat Discovery

September 14, 2018

After the gold dredge we took a short bus ride to the banks of the Chena River and the Riverboat Discovery landing.

Discovery III tied up at the Athabascan village

First stop was the communal dining room where were sat down to a "miners' lunch" of salad, beef stew, sauteed veggies and a brownie for dessert.

After a shopping opportunity, we boarded the riverboat and set off down the river to the first attraction, a float plane taking off and landing on the river next to us. We listened in on the two way communication via radio between the pilot and our captain.

We admired riverside properties and stopped to watch the dogs at Trail Breaker Kennels, owned by the late Susan Butcher and her husband Dan Monson. Susan won four of the races in 1986, 87, 88 and 90.

Enjoying a beautiful day on the Chena River

Typical Alaskan commuter. One out of 76 Alaskans have private pilot's licenses

Dog team starting a practice run

Back from their run the dogs are waiting to be released so they can take a swim

On down the river we came to the confluence of the Chena and Tanana Rivers before tuning back  up the river to stop at the Athabascan village. The village consists of replicas of Indian buildings from the steamboat age when there were many such villages along the river.

Typical dwelling and cache

Replica smokehouse

Ceremonial robe weighs 23 pounds

Chugging back up the river on a real sternwheeler

 Back at our hotel by 1700 we were a tired group after the day's interesting activities.

 

Fairbanks Gold Dredge #8

September 14, 2018

Today was so interesting and busy I'll break my update into two parts. First we'll visit the gold dredge.

The station for the replica Tanana Valley Railroad was just beyond one of the above ground sections of the Alyeska Pipeline. The pipeline is worthy of a blog entry by itself but I'll leave that for another day.

Alan group makes their way to the pipeline attraction

At the approach to the station there was a signpost showing the way to various destinations.

The train made its way through various static exhibits of old gold mine equipment, while an old timer and his daughter entertained us via CCTV from the front car with songs from the period.

Drag line bucket in operation

These pipes pushed water into the frozen gravel to thaw the ground in preparation for the dredge

Our narrator soon was replaced by an old timer and his daughter singing and playing the old songs.

 The old dredge was an efficient machine processing some 6,000 cubic yards of material every 24 hours to produce an average of 4,000 ounces of gold every two weeks.

The old dredge is stately even at rest

We got a chance to pan for gold with success guaranteed for everyone.

Denali to Fairbanks

Sept 13, 2018

It feels good to be drafting an update in real time.

Spent a good part of the day yesterday taking advantage of the good WiFi available in the McKinley Lodge lounge. Speed was good enough to post pictures without error messages or time outs. Yea!!

This morning after baggage pickup, we checked out of the room and moved to the lobby to finish bringing the blog up to date. Got done just before we loaded buses at 1400,

We headed north towards Fairbanks, gradually descending from about 1500 feet at the resort to 446 feet in Fairbanks. The lower elevations brought even more yellows and golds in the aspens along the road.

Swivel-head passengers catching the sights along our route to Fairbanks

We stopped for a rest break at Nenana, known for wagering on the date and time of the annual ice breakup on the Nenana River and, depending on weather, in some years for being milepost #1 of the Iditarod Race.

After our break we loaded up and listened to our driver spin tales of the wilderness all the way to our hotel.

These transfer days are the slow days of our tour. Travel with Alan tries to make them as interesting as possible but there's no getting around the necessity of transporting a large group of people from one main attraction to the next. Nansea has worked with our drivers to provide interesting stops along the way to break up the transfers and the slow days let us older people recuperate from the busy days at the main attractions.

Tomorrow's a big day so we took it easy today.

Alaska RR to Denali

Sept 11, 2018

After a comfortable night and quick breakfast at the Westmark Hotel, we were shuttled to the Alaska Railroad for our trip to Denali. The engines are owned by the railroad and the cars are owned by HAL.

We all had reserved seats on the upper level and enjoyed grand views along the way.

Before we had traveled far we saw a big bull moose right on Joint Base Elmendorf-Richardson. Saw another a few miles further on down the line. Not many other animals were sighted from the train but the endless scenery made up for it.

As we rolled along the track Denali reared its head now and again even though still more than two hundred miles away.

We wended through Wasilla and a little civilization then soon back to the wilds. Here and there we saw a homesteaders cabin. Homesteading ended in Alaska in 1986 but many homesteaders still live on their land. It takes planning and resourcefulness to live far from roads and the corner grocery store.

Vegetation we saw included paper birch cottonwood, scrub willow and alder, aspen and white and black spruce. Nothing very tall. Lots of areas with pockets of dead trees where the '64 earthquake changed the topography.

While Ikuko and I were in the dining car, we passed though Willow, a small trading post, and then picked up Princess passengers in Talkeetna.

As we gained altitude we gained colors, with gorgeous yellows and golds showing on the birches and aspens and a red understory of blueberry and fireweed leaves lighting up the forest floor.

Strangely the trees here, though small, were a little taller than those we saw down by Anchorage.

The passenger across the aisle from me was reading his book, "Sundays at Tiffany's" all the way. I had noticed him earlier reading on the ship and on the land portion. He might as well have stayed home.

Hurricane Gulch trestle was completed in 1921 and still carries trains 296 feet above Hurricane Gulch. The trestle is only eight feet wide so the walkway beside the tracks is a scary trek for the occasional brave pedestrian.

We arrived at the HAL McKinley Chalet Resort at 1700 after a beautiful ride through some of America's best wilderness.

McKinley Chalet Resort

September 12, 2018

Our bus dropped us off last night at Canyon Lodge. We got settled in, explored the grounds a little then went to bed early.

Our room was on the third floor of Canyon Lodge, the only building on site with elevators

An eight-hour tundra wilderness tour is part of our Alan package. Ikuko is still suffering from a cold so we decided to stay at the lodge instead. She could nurse her cold and I could try to catch up on my blog.

McKinley Lodge is the Holland America destination lodge here in the Denali area. It is well conceived and efficiently laid out.

There is the main lodge with its ancillary buildings, Denali Square with its buildings, and residence buildings arranged around several circular roads. There are 843 rooms with 90 more under construction, two large restaurants on site, souvenir shops and a dinner theater.

Bus from the old days

In Denali Square there are fire pits (gas) at some of the tables and several around the courtyard, some gas, some burning wood.

Denali Square

Karstens restaurant interior

The utilities are all underground and each building cluster is served by its own septic tank system. Even the septic drain fields are landscaped, lending into the park-like setting.

The complex is served by buses continuously circling around the roads, other buses run to and from nearby restaurants and the large coaches deliver arriving and pick up departing passengers. It's a pretty good system, well conceived and well run.

During our meals I noted wait staff from several European countries. Last night after dinner I asked how many nationalities were represented here. The answer: "I don't know but almost all the European countries as well as some other countries." They sign on for the summer then go home again. Some have worked here several summers while some come over a couple years to fill in breaks during their university years.

Anchorage

Sept 10, 2018

Had a good breakfast then checked out of the Windsong Lodge and boarded our buses for a scenic trip to Anchorage.

First stop was the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center near Girdwood. They do rescue work, selective breeding and manage animals to support the species.

The northern edge of the sanctuary borders Turnagain Arm, so named after the entry Capt Cook made in his journal while searching for the Northwest Passage. After sailing into numerous promising bodies of water only to be frustrated, this time he wrote, "turn again, turn again" as he went out to continue his search.

Today there was an especially high tide of 37.5 feet so parts of the road were flooded. Margo dropped us off at the visitors center so we could walk around as desired. I walked out to Turnagain Arm. This is one of several places in the world that have a bore tide where a tidal bore comes roaring up the channel under the right conditions.

On the way back, I admired the various animals then got back to the bus in time.

After lunch at a small diner with an efficient system, our busload of tourists headed on into Anchorage and our hotel.

Alongside the highway I could identify scrub birch, alder, willow and mountain ash. Also, there were lots of medium sized cottonwood. Spruce trees are medium size down low, small higher up. Hillsides above timberline were red from blueberry and fireweed leaves sporting their fall colors.

I've seen scrub willow around home but it was different to see the mature scrub alder and mountain ash bearing cones and orange berries while only six to seven feet tall.

After dinner I watched the sunset after another good weather day.

Seward

Sept 9, 2018

We arrived in Seward about 0430. I had stepped outside about 0200 to check the weather and saw the Milky Way for the first time in a long while. What a beautiful night sky, plus more calm seas.

The Seward cruise ship terminal can handle two ships at a time but the pier is short so half the ship is tied to the pier while the other half hangs out into the bay and is secured by a couple dolphins and one long line to the pier.

A small boat harbor was nearby. Again, with a mix of commercial and sports fishing boats.

Our group is scheduled for disembarkation at 1215 so after breakfast we cleared out our room before the 0930 deadline and hung out in the public areas, Ikuko reading and doing puzzles while I drafted blog entries.

At the appointed time our group number was called and we said goodbye to the Westerdam, rode to the center of Seward and got off for some sightseeing.

Ikuko and I spent some time at time at the aquarium then walked around the beach path watching people. Fishermen fishing from the bank were catching salmon and there were plenty of campers and tents throughout the waterfront park.

At the appointed time our bus river, Margo, wheeled the big coach up to the curb and we reclaimed our seats.

On the way to our lodge, Margo told us a little local history and otherwise entertained us with stories and anecdotes.

Margo told us she was originally from New Zealand, had lived in Alaska for thirty years and is a retired pilot. She flew multi-engine freighters to supply villages and commercial endeavors in remote areas. Now she's retired and drives bus to keep busy.

We made a stop along the way at a salmon spawning creek then Margo delivered us to the Windsong Lodge about five miles out of Seward.

Windsong is well designed to accommodate the cruise ship trade. There is a main lobby near the road, a dining complex nearby and ten or twelve eight-unit bedroom buildings spaced around a large circular drive accessible to buses and baggage trucks.

While here, the Alan tour included dinner and breakfast. The dinner was a plated meal served to all 99 of the Alan people at the same time. I must say it went smoothly although there were no choices. Breakfast was buffet style and also was well managed. Quite a feat to serve so many people in a short time.

I must say this has been the most amazing weather. Even the HAL people are saying it's the best weather they've seen this year. Hope it continues for the next six days.

Gulf of Alaska

Sept 8, 2018

This morning we woke to blue skies and calm seas.

Before breakfast I stepped out onto the Promenade Deck. There was a following wind which canceled out the apparent wind caused by our speed so I walked a lap just to stretch my legs.

Morning on a calm Gulf of Alaska

A little later I saw passengers enjoying the warm morning sun with zero apparent wind.

Today was "On deck for a cause" day when, in return for a contribution to the HAL cancer charity, participants received a T-shirt and wrist band for doing a 5-km walk (nine laps around the deck).

There were about 100 walkers, most dressed for the Arctic. Since I'd already sampled the morning air, I wore only a T-shirt and light vest. Being such a nice day, it wasn't long before walkers began to shed clothes.

At noon I attended a special lunch for three, four and five-star Mariners (HAL loyalty program). Mariners are repeat cruisers on HAL and stars are awarded for cumulative days and dollars spent on cruises. As with most such programs, the more stars, the more perks.

This afternoon we spent some time packing. On the land portion of this cruise tour, we have the option of sending bags to the hotel where we're spending the night or, in the case of fancy clothes or other things that won't be needed after the cruise, we can send a suitcase(s) straight to Fairbanks, where we spend two nights before flying back to Seattle.

Off to the dining room, we had a farewell dinner to celebrate the end of the cruise portion of our holiday. There were more desserts than usual and the chefs made an appearance so we could thank them for a job well done.

Every night while we are at dinner, our room steward turns down the bed, leaves the schedule of the next day's activities along with some chocolates and does a piece of towel art. Tonight he folded a swinging monkey.

After dinner I stepped out and snapped another photo of the unusually calm Gulf.

Ikuko seems to be catching cold so we retired early hoping some extra rest would nip that in the bud.