Fukuoka to Beppu

This morning after breakfast we loaded up and headed out for Beppu via Yabakei.

Porter in tophat loading bags

Along the way we stopped at a rest stop ("comfort stop" as our guide calls it) where there were over 150 solar panels lining the hillside and over the grassy areas in the center of the clover leaves and other available space. Couldn't get a definitive answer if they were for powering the rest stop or if they fed into the grid for general use.

Solar panels on the hillside with many more in the clover leaf 

On to Yabakei Gorge we toured the cave built by a monk who witnessed the dfficulties pilgrims were having navigating the steep hillside alongside the river. He spent over 30 years with nothing but a hammer and chisel carving out a cave (named Ao-no-domon) about 185 meters long. He even chiseled out two windows to let in light in those days before electricity.

A view of the Yabakei Gorge showing a piece of the tunnel.

A statue of the monk carved in stone
inside the tunnel.

A view of the longest section of the tunnel, now lighted
by electricity. One of the windows is just behind me.

A bronze statue of the monk at work.

Further up the Gorge we saw some fantastic rocks left by the river the carved out the gorge and I fed one hundred yen worth of fish pellets to the semi-wild rainbow trout living in the river.

On to Beppu we followed a winding road over a pass. The road is well marked and has convex mirrors mounted on many of the corners so drivers can "see around the corner" so to speak. They work quite well and often drivers of large vehicles like trucks and our bus take turns going around the corners.

Beppu is a city on the northeastern coast of Kyushu similar to our own Yellowstone Park where the Earth's heated core comes close to the surface. There are many hot springs, at least one geyser, and lots of hotels and ryokans specializing in serving the population of health seekers and vacationers enjoying the mineral waters.

After checking in to the Suginoi Hotel the first order of business was to visit the ofuro (public bath) where the famous Beppu mineral water soothed away aches and pains and softened tough skin to a baby's softness.

No cameras allowed in the bath for obvious reasons (no clothes allowed in the baths) but I wish I could post a photograph of this one. There were five tiers of hot water, each approximately 30 to 40 feet long depending on the level and two to three feet deep, again depending on the level. Also there was a sauna, three soaking tubs, a steamy grotto and an inside level. All except the grotto and the inside pool were outside with a view of Beppu Bay and fed by the natural heated mineral water coming from the rocks in various places in the hills surrounding the city.

After the bath and some time for relaxation we gathered for dinner in a private dining room where we were served kaiseki, a Japanese multi-course dinner. Actually, there are names for each of the dishes and a certain protocol about how they are prepared and what should go in each course. I don't keep track of all that but I do appreciate the care with which each course is prepared and served and the special dishes used for the various courses.

Kaiseki at the Suginoi Hotel in Beppu

Last night the sashimi (raw fish) course was served in three different dishes which is a departure from the normal. Note the Tai (sea bream) in the oblong dish just behind the water glass and the (so far empty) beer glass has a different sized, but matching shape and pattern, shoyu dish. The aji (horse mackeral) just behind that is served with different additions to the shoyu so there is a dfferent but matching dish for that. In this case the serving dish for the sashimi is square and the shoyu dish is round but the patterns match. The sashimi behind that is pickled mackeral and it needs no shoyu so there is no matching dish for that but it comes in a nice stylistic fish-shaped dish.

The small round dish next to the noodles is the dish for the condiments that are added to the aji's soy sauce. These are chopped chives, grated ginger and wasabi. Next to the left is the noodle dish with semi-hard poached egg. In front of that is a small glass of umeshu (plum wine) for toasting. To the left of that is a small piece of egg loaf topped with a little seaweed. Above that is the dipping sauce for the sliced beef and vegetable dish cooking in the green lidded pan over the fire just above the sauce.

The metal pot with the wooden lid over an unlit fire is a rice dish that hasn't been started yet. Below that is a dish of pickles partially covered with a rice serving bowl. In front of that is an overturned tea cup with a small wooden saucer waiting for tea to be served toward the end of the meal.

As the meal progresses other dishes arrive. The round covered
dish containes a piece of eggplant simmered in a soy sauce
base and topped with a boiled shrimp, mushroom and piece of
yellow summer squash and served with a poached okra.
The rectangular dish holds a piece of steamed salmon topped
with a mustard sauce, mushrooms, pepper and a leaf shaped
piece of tofu sponge colored to match a fall leaf. On the right
are two slices of pickled lotus root and on the left two maple leaves
 as an inedible garnish.

Here is a chawan-mushi (steamed egg
custard containing veggies and a ginko
nut and small piece of either fish or
chicken) served on a small wooden
dish and wooden spoon.
 

I forgot to take of photo of the dessert but it also was served on a unique dish and was composed of a small piece of cake and a small piece each of pineapple, cantalope and honeydew melon. After that we wandered off to bed to catch up on sleep and get more accustomed to our new time zone.