Saturday, June 27, 2015

Day 6 Nguyen Binh to Meo Vac

We just thought we were in the hills before today. Now we know what hill country is all about.

It's not far as the crow flies between these places. Wing (our guide leader) says about 30km, but because the roads wind up and down and around the mountains we traveled about 180km to get to our stop for tonight.


My breakfast bowl of pho


Part of the meat market


The intrepid travelers at a waterfall


A typical part of our travels. Roads are narrow, twisty and fall off to steep drops into rivers or ravines. Guardrails are few.


A small tributary falling down into the barely visible river below
posted from Bloggeroid

Friday, June 26, 2015

Day 5 Photos





Corn drying on the stalk will be husked and dried on the cob then shucked and dried more before being used or sold as animal feed.



Flower shop in a small town.



Dragon fruit in bloom



Enjoying a short walk to rest the gluteus maximus.

posted from Bloggeroid

Day 5 (cont)

After visiting the falls we hopped back on our bikes and did the reverse journey over the mountains almost back to Cao Bang where we turned towards the West (very generally)and rode hard for Nguyen Binh.









I'm trying shorter posts so I can catch up on photos

posted from Bloggeroid

Day 5 Cao Bang to ??? Via Ban Doc Waterfall

The reason for the question marks is we're not sure yet where we stay tonight. We bought our passes this morning at the local government house so we could visit the famous falls on the VN Chinese border.

It's a 90 kilometer trip up over the 500 metre pass and back down through beautiful countryside to the border area.






The waterfalls were impressive. The falls on the left are from a Vietnamese river, those on the right from a Chinese. Vietnam is on the left of the larger falls, China on the right.


And here's a shot of our party at the falls.

Bloggeroid choked so I deleted the last photo hoping that makes the post more digestible. I know there is a data limit guess I'll have to experiment to find it. Plus the group photo was taken with a regular camera set on higher resolution so that might be part of the problem.

posted from Bloggeroid

Thursday, June 25, 2015

Day 4 (cont)

On down the road we passed a pig on its way to market.



A little later I saw an interesting farm building built the old fashioned way issuing mortise and tendon joints with pegs to hold everything together.




On into the town and that welcome shower.

Until tomorrow.

posted from Bloggeroid

Day 4 (cont)

At the hill tribe farm we meet three of the four generations of the extended family. The great grandmother was chopping a young banana stock to be mixed with corn, cooked and feed to the pigs.




The mother and one of her children were in the second house and the others were out working.

There were small enclosures for the pigs, a horse and the water buffaloes. The animal manure was scraped off the slabs into a holding area where the chickens were scratching for their lunch. Later it would be spread on the fields for fertilizer.




There was one modern house in this family's area but most of the buildings were of the old construction using wooden posts and beams with interlaced bamboo slats covered with mud-straw mix similar to adobe.



Note the old buffalo-drawn plow hanging on the wall in the above photo. These plows are still in use in some of these hill villages but people are changing to mechanical propulsion as they can afford it. Note the contrast of old and new in the next photo.




Next (and last) section follows.
posted from Bloggeroid

Day 4 Lang Son to Cao Bang (cont)

Leaving the border crossing we rode through beautiful countryside reminiscent of old Chinese scroll paintings until we came to a Buddhist temple.

After climbing an even one hundred steps we toured the temple, donated some money, lit incense sticks and prayed to the gods for safe travels.








On down the road we stopped at a veneer mill but since it was closed we just walked around the yard admiring the color, grain and patterns of the veneer sheets placed outside to dry.

Stopped for lunch in a small town then back on the mountain roads with mud and some potholes that looked deep enough to swallow a small vehicle.




Next stop was a minority hill tribe village and toured one extended family's homestead, but that will be the final section of today's post.
posted from Bloggeroid

Lang Son to Cao Bang

Sister Sue asked how long we actually ride each day. I can't access the blog to answer comments so here's a brief description of the time actually spent in the saddle today.

We left Lang Son at nine this morning and arrived Cao Bang at five this afternoon. Time not actually riding probably totaled two and one half or three hours.

First stop this morning was a short detour to visit the Chinese border. Lots of truck traffic told us we were close and before long we began to pass a double line of 22 wheelers lined up to go through into China.

We climbed up to the border marker where Wing (the leader of our guide/drivers) translated and told us some of the history of this particular crossing.




During the war(s) the road went through tunnels but now they have cut through the mountains so the drive is all above ground.




This border crossing as with all, is tightly controlled. No Peace Arch here.

posted from Bloggeroid

Wednesday, June 24, 2015

Ha Long to Lang Son (cont]

Ok, back to blogging after a technological interruption.

Glenn and I had just gone out for breakfast rolls and coffee. French/Vietnamese rolls and coffee done we set off in gusty winds and intermittent rain.

We were riding around the north side of Ha Long Bay so saw the famous round topped sheer sided pillars, usually seen from boats on the bay side, from the other side. Our view could have been even better because we were closer.

During a break in the weather we stopped at a small market to buy some lychee. Next door was a lady butchering a fresh carcass with some nervous ducks waiting their turn.




Back on our trusty steeds we rode east eating lychee fruits. You've never experienced the true essence of lychee until you pop one in your mouth while riding a motorbike through tropical storm number one (for this year). We didn't have to dodge any flying branches but there were plenty along the road and the rain was sometimes a deluge.

Stopped for lunch at the ill fated roadside restaurant where we had excellent chicken pho.

The further from the city the smaller the road and the fewer the vehicles. Soon we saw very few cars,lots of motorbikes with the occasional bus and huge truck.

Today we stopped to see some water buffaloes maintaining the right of way.




Later we crossed a suspension bridge a la Capilano and visited a brick factory.




Into Lang Son around four, we checked into our hotel for a welcome shower and rest before dinner.

Dinner tonight consisted of roast duck, roast pork, roasted eggplant in a tomato sauce and roasted tofu slices in a pepper and tomato sauce. We also had sautéed veggies and the obligatory beer. Total price, about $7.50 US each.

posted from Bloggeroid

Blogging Troubles

Tried to post an update yesterday from a roadside restaurant with weak WiFi but it was so slow we had to get back on the road before the photos uploaded. Somehow that locked me out. I've tried a couple fixes but no dice. Glenn has the only other smartphone in our group and he can't access the site either. Apparently it works ok outside VN.

When I can find an Internet Cafe I'll try accessing from a computer. Meanwhile I'll post blind hoping it works. Please excuse typos. Also will try one photo with this post.



Water buffalo on the way
posted from Bloggeroid

Test

Troubles connecting to my host. Trying a different browser.

posted from Bloggeroid

Ha Long to Lang Son

Today started and ended with rain. The were a few dry spells but mostly we had rain and wind.

Originally we planned to ride a boat around Ha Long Bay but as there is an almost typhoon nearby packing high winds and rain we passed on the boat ride and headed for the mountains and Lang Son, 160 km up the road.

Glenn and went out early to get some rolls from a bakery and coffee. Found the bakery but no coffee until eight when a nearby coffee shop opened.
posted from Bloggeroid

Tuesday, June 23, 2015

SEATAC to Hanoi 3

We flew the final leg into Hanoi on an A321 with only a little over half the seats filled. That was nice after the full 777 on the Seattle to Taipei leg. This plane also had the roomier seat spacing and earnest, friendly and very competent cabin staff.

We arrived at about eleven am local time, Tuesday, 6/23, or about nine pm, Monday, November 6/22, Seattle time.

This airport had a modem building but the line to clear customs and immigration snaked back and forth about 100 slow moving yards.

Finally we were waved through customs, had our visas stamped at immigration, meet our driver/guides, hopped on the backs of our trusty steeds and set off for Fa Long in 95 degree temps.


posted from Bloggeroid

Monday, June 22, 2015

SEATAC to Hanoi 2

Our slow boat to China only took 12 hours, plus or minus, and it was a pleasant interlude as such things go. Better than a dentist's chair, but not much.

Seriously, we flew EVA Air and it was a cut above the US carriers I've flown on lately. We were in steerage but their seat pitch gave us three or four extra inches, the seats reclined twice as far as US carriers and the food was good, for airplane food.

What impressed me most was the cheerful, competent, well trained young stewardesses, without a male or a frumpy old lady to be seen. Must have weak airline unions in Taipei.

Taipei airport is a pleasant modern place with helpful people and lots of little shops selling local and international souvenirs and foods. Even saw a couple shops selling indigenous Taiwanese products. I hadn't considered it before but these would have been the people that were here when Chang Kai Shek (sp?) and his army came across the straits.




Well made cappuccino at Illy coffee shop.

Connecting flight to Hanoi is boarding shortly so I'll post this before we get on.

posted from Bloggeroid

SEATAC to Hanoi

Our flight was scheduled out of SEATAC at 0150 and since it was an international flight we decided to get there a little early. Got to the airport at 2245 where the check in line was short as was the line at the TSA so we had plenty of time to sit at the closed restaurants.

Here are photos of our group of four intrepid travelers sitting around a table in the closed restaurant area.




Russ, our organizer and leader



Justin, on his second trip with Russ




Glenn, on his first trip to Vietnam




Yours truly, on my first trip back since the war

They just announced a little delay so now we're scheduled for departure at 0210.

I'm going to post this while still in Seattle not knowing when I'll find WiFi and the pictures use more data.

On board and off we go.

posted from Bloggeroid

Saturday, June 20, 2015

Long Days

Tomorrow is the longest day of the year here in Seattle.

Today and for the last nine days the Sun has risen at 5:11 in the morning and today and for the next 11 days it sets at 9:11 in the evening. We are toward the western side of the Pacific Time Zone so the Sun rises and sets about 20 minutes later than it does in Spokane which is toward the eastern side of our time zone. Today, for instance, the Sun rose at 4:51 this morning and sets at 8:51 thisevening over there in Spokane.

I was up this morning at 4 puttering around the house and thought I would take a picture or two of the rising sun at its northernmost point. As near as I can tell without fancy instruments the sun rose this morning at a point about 41 degrees north of due east. Tonight it will set in about the same location in the West.

Here in Seattle tomorrow will be 8 hours and 34 minutes longer than the shortest day of the year at Winter Solstice.

Many people don't realize it but we are well north of Quebec City and Montreal and in fact north of any part of Maine so our summer days are long and winter days are short.





Just prior to sunrise NE of my house.



Another picture to the northeast.


Another disadvantage of posting from my phone is that I can't add captions to the pictures. As a field expedient (as they used to say in the army) I will add text below the pictures and see how that works.

posted from Bloggeroid

Friday, June 19, 2015

Uchiwa

It's cool in Seattle this evening but a few days ago it was quite warm so I broke out my old uchiwa.

An uchiwa, as you can see from the photo, is a non-folding fan. In times past these fans were sometimes very stylistic and highly decorated but in my experience modern fans tend to be pretty utilitarian.



They are commonly used in the home or office for cooling. They are lightweight and don't take much energy to produce a nice cooling breeze.

The uchiwa is used for other things too. One of my favorite memories is watching a yakitori master fanning the charcoal as he cooked skewered chicken. I think he used to purposefully fan the smoke and aroma toward the open spaces to attract customers to his stand.

The fan I have is an old one and it was probably made in Japan. The handle is a solid piece of cedar and as it transitions to the fan it is joined to bamboo which splits into ribs and forms the skeleton for the paper.

In contrast to the uchiwa there is the folding fan (oogi or sensu in Japanese). While the folding fan also serves the purpose of cooling it tends to be more decorative and although it can be used by both sexes, it is more commonly used by women.

No need for a fan tonight here in Seattle. The outside temperature at my place at 10:30 was 61 degrees and falling with a moderate north wind blowing. I'll sleep well tonight.
posted from Bloggeroid

Thursday, June 18, 2015

Early Summer Flowers

Now that we finally have a system for posting from my phone I'll give it more of a thorough test.

As I have walked in the evenings with my little dog I've been noticing the changeover from spring flowers to early summer flowers. Furthermore, I am surprising myself with my newly found observation skills.

I've always known that the flowers change during the spring summer and fall but I've never paid close attention. Since I've started taking pictures of the flowers I've had to pay attention more closely and so I see things that I never saw before. Well I saw them but they didn't register.

The other day I was out walking and saw a snowberry bush and noticed that it was in bloom. I don't think I've ever noticed snowberry blossoms before. They are tiny little flowers and hard to see. Now I'll see if I can post a picture at this point.

Well, for those of you who have already seen the picture I posted from my phone you know it was the wrong one. Unfortunately the smartphone app doesn't have editing or even preview options so when I saw the bogus photo I deleted it using my laptop.

I'm learning as I go however, so by the time I leave for Vietnam maybe the posts will be accurate.


Now I'll try multiple photos just to see what Bloggeroid does with them. These are all photos of the new flowers along our walking route.









Learning as I go. The third photo of the series above is the snowberry bush. I haven't been able to find a button that will allow me to edit. Also can't find an edit feature. More learning ahead.
posted from Bloggeroid

Portable Blogging

Here's another test of posting from my phone.


posted from Bloggeroid

Wednesday, June 10, 2015

Family Golf

Yesterday my two brothers, my elder son and I went golfing.

Years ago we used to golf year round but now we golf only in the summertime, and even then only when it's not raining, too windy or suffering from any other inclement weather. Yesterday was perfect for our kind of golf. The sun was shining, the wind was blowing, but not too hard, and the course wasn't too crowded.

The four of us go by nicknames while on the golf course, and other times for that matter. I, as the oldest, and in consideration of my term as president of the local Eagles club, am known as The Prez. Comes my next brother, Harry, known as The Chief for his years as Battalion chief with the Bellingham fire Department. The comes our little brother, Keith, known as The Shacho because he is the owner (shacho in Japanese means company boss) of a meat supply house in Bellingham (previous mentioned in this blog as the best west of the Mississippi and east of Hawaii). Then comes Glenn, my son, who because of his age is known as The JP (Junior Partner).

The Prez being helped along by a kibitzer

The Chief following through on a fine shot

The Shacho preparing to out drive us all as usual





The JP preparing to smite a mighty blow

Yesterday we played at the Swinomish Links, previously known as Similk Beach Golf Course. The course is in transition from a rather nondescript, duffer friendly (wide open) course with lots of potential to one with more challenges, as they say in the game. What that means to golfers like our family is we lose more balls because of the increased height of the rough and the increasingly large areas of long grass, deep bunkers and sand traps. Even after the recent warm spell the course was a lush green where it would have had brown fairways in years past.

We teed off at 0940 and played a relaxed game with no one pushing us and nobody in front to slow us down. When we were younger we kept score but as we've grown older we don't bother. We play for the camaraderie and exercise. The camaraderie is wonderful and raises the spirits for the rest of the week. The exercise feels good that day but I suffer for a couple days after with sore muscles and stiff joints. I suppose it doesn't bother the younger members of our foursome but I'm beginning to notice the after effects.

We finished up our round at about ten to two, changed shoes, loaded up our clubs and headed to the Mexico Cafe in Mt Vernon for some chips, salsa, fried jalapenos, cold bean salad and posole or menudo with the mandatory tortillas. 






















































As I get older I appreciate more and more the time spent with my family. I realize the time is short when we can play together so best to enjoy it while we can. 








Thursday, June 4, 2015

East the Mountains

Today I'm in Yakima for our VFW State Convention.

When I was growing up I would sometimes hear the older folks talking about, "Going east the mountains," or, "When I was east the mountains." The "of" was left out, probably from repeated usage and mutual understanding, and, yes, verbal laziness.

To the consternation of English teachers everywhere, speakers (more than writers) of any language make changes, invent new words, delete unnecessary words and change meanings as they see fit. I don't notice it so much with English except when I hear young people conversing (That's English?). If you live with a language the changes seem to occur naturally and are little noticed, except by those pesky English teachers. Well, I guess that's the definition of a "living" language.

But, as an old friend would say, "I digress." Back to Yakima and being east the mountains where life is slower, fruits are fresher and people are friendlier than in the big city.

Yesterday on the drive over the pass (Snoqualmie) on I-90 the scenery changes dramatically. On the west side trees and low vegetation grow in profusion wherever there's space. On this side of the mountains things are different. Our westside fir forest with heavy underbrush gives way to pine forest with trees spaced out according to the water supply. Then comes the grasslands, then the sagebrush and other arid country bushes and sparse grass. Although this time of year the hills are shaded in greens thanks to the springtime rains.

As I turned off I-90 and drove up I-82 over Manastash Pass on the way to Yakima I noted that even the rocks are different. On the west side highway cuts show mostly sedimentary rocks with their distinct layers whereas on this side the cuts reveal igneous rock from the volcanic activity that has shaped the countryside over the eons.

Last night I walked to the center of the old town. Temperature was in the mid-seventies so it was pleasant with a little breeze. Looking for someplace inviting for dinner I circled a couple blocks and ended up in the Second Street Grill. I've eaten there before so knew it to have good food. Last night I had steamed clams and a mini Greek pizza. A glass of local pinot gris went with the clams and a nice zin complimented the pizza.

Since I didn't have a dinner companion I contemplated the wonders of modern capitalism. Once upon a time I would have been leery of eating clams in Yakima but now clams make the trip from Hood Canal to Yakima, or even to the center of our country in a day or two using refrigerated transport. Those clams were probably just as fresh as any you would find in Seattle.

The Greek pizza had olive oil from Italy or Spain, sun-dried tomatoes from Mexico, kalamata olives from Greece, artichoke hearts from California, cheeses from who knows where, etc. All those things delivered to my table at a very reasonable price because of the wonders of supply and demand and modern transportation. Amazing, when you think of all the ways my order (and thousands of others) triggered the restaurant to order the goods, the wholesalers to deliver them, the shippers to bring them in and even the farmers to grow them. The "invisible hand" as Adam Smith described it.

When I travel I miss my little dog, Kuro, who keeps me company and gives me good counsel when I'm home. Hmmm, I wonder if I can communicate with him telepathically?




Tuesday, June 2, 2015

Wild Roses

Tonight our walk took us up a different street from the usual. Along this route we went by the south edge of the little park near out house. I've noticed over the years that there is a large patch of wild roses there and I am happy to report that our wild roses are just coming into full bloom. There was still a sprinkling of rain so the air was humid and the wind was eddying mostly from the south. The aroma of the wild roses hit my nose before I saw them and that smell is so sweet.

Fair warning: No pictures.

I usually take my camera wherever I go out but tonight I forgot to put it in my pocket so I had to be especially observant to catch the color and shape of the leaves and flowers and that helped to retrieve the aroma from that part of my brain that catalogues and stores smells.

Kuro would say I'm a piker when it comes to smells. He can smell thousands of times better than I can. In fact some dogs such as bloodhounds can smell millions of times better than humans. Kuro isn't that gifted but he certainly enjoys walking around the neighborhood taking in the different smells that I don't even notice (thankfully, in some cases).

Back to the the wild roses. The scent of wild roses is special to me. It takes me back to my youth when my brother, Harry, and I would roam the fields and woods doing what boys do, or at least what they did back then.

We had no cell phones or pagers or fitbits or special shoes or clothing or hydration equipment. We went out in the morning and entertained ourselves, came back for lunch and went out again. Looking back,I'm not sure just what we did to entertain ourselves but I know we observed and smelled and climbed and tasted and catalogued the things of the wild.

One of the special spots in my heart is reserved for those memories. I remember that when the wild roses were in bloom the wild strawberries were ripe. Those were two complimentary plants. The aroma of the roses and the taste of the little wild strawberries was similar in a way. Both were sweet, were in shades of red, grew only in special places and both embodied the special attraction of summer.

Wild roses don't grow just anywhere. It seems they prefer certain places. Rocky ground is good, as is roadsides and field borders where most other plants can't make it. They are hardy, don't need fertilization or special pruning and yield wonderful flowers and good fruit. Rose hips from wild roses are sought after since they are high in vitamin C and can be used for tea (infusions) and other concoctions from days of yore.

The patch of wild roses that caught my attention tonight is just regrowing after being removed by the parks department. Last year the bushes were tall and thick. The parks workers mowed them right down to the ground but this year they are back with vigor. The new growth is about 30" tall and glowing with new green leaves and pink flowers.

I'd like to adopt the special survival skills of wild roses. And while I'm at it I'd like to resurrect those special ways to entertain myself from when I was just a little shaver. But at any stage of life there's something to be said for stopping to smell the roses.